Ferret Colors
Ferrets are classified by patterns, markings, and colors. Casually, most people refer to ferrets by their coloring. Color classifications, while most commonly done, are also very imperfect as some ferrets will change colors. Sometimes ferrets are also named for a particular configuration of markings they possess, but since colors may change, these markings may also fade and become less noticeable.
Before I describe the types, you should be aware that ferret fur is divided into their guardhairs and their undercoat. The guardhairs are more visible and stick out farther, and the undercoat lies underneath as the name suggests. The undercoat may be harder to get a good look at in certain breeds. Generally the color classifications are named for the guardhairs.
Please note that this is not a “complete list.” Depending on who you ask, and when you ask them, there may be more or less. This is because of disputes on whether some are really new classifications or just variations on the originals. Regardless, this is my list, and the information is solid for the ferret colors I am listing.
Ferret Colors
| Name | Guardhairs | Undercoat | Eyes | Nose |
| Black Ferret | Black | White or golden | Black | Black or speckled black |
| Black sable | Dark brown | White or cream-colored | Black | Black or brownish black |
| Chocolate | Light brown | Golden or white | Brown or dark burgundy | Light pink w/ possible ‘T’ outline, beige, or brick-colored |
| Champagne | Light to medium tan | Cream color | Varies | Usually pink |
| Cinnamon | Light reddish-brown | White or golden | Light to medium burgundy | Pink, may be
as dark as beige with a brick-colored ‘T’ |
| Albino | Between cream and snow white | Between cream and snow white | Light to medium pink | Pink |
| Dark-Eyed White (DEW) | White or cream-colored with stripes or spots | White or cream-colored | Dark Burgundy | Pink |
If you’re using the ferret colors table as an aid for selection, rather than just a reference guide, you might want to note that DEW ferrets are more prone to deafness as a result of Woardensburg Syndrome.
If you feel strongly that a particular group should or shouldn’t be on the list, comment below and I will add or remove according to the numbers. If I get enough feedback I may add a survey instead for particular ferret colors.
Ferret Toys
It is an indisputable truth that ferrets need ferret toys. The thing is, they can and do use almost everything as a toy, even if you hadn’t intended for it to be that way. This is why actual ferret toys are needed. By this I mean something for the sole use of your ferret’s play and happiness.
If you find something they like more than what you have, maybe you won’t have to go searching the house in the morning looking for your watch or something else of the sort. Your ferret may still steal things from you even with toys, but you should notice a solid difference if you’ve chosen correctly.
The other benefit of ferret toys is that they provide your ferret with exercise that all animals need. Exercise keeps them healthy and alert for a longer life, so make sure your fuzzy friend is playing.
You have a wide variety to choose from when it comes to ferret toys. The problem is that they aren’t always safe, so don’t grab just anything and toss it to your friend. Many won’t last very long either, but the good news is that almost all of the safe toys are also durable.
So here are the guideline questions when getting ferret toys:
- Is this small enough that my ferret could swallow and choke on it?
- Is this made of a material that my ferret could chew up, swallow, and either choke on or get sick from? If he or she can chew it up and it isn’t edible, you’re better off leaving it alone.
- Is this toy durable? If it isn’t, you’re going to be heading out to the store for more pretty soon. Ferrets aren’t very easy-going on their toys.
If you’re short on ideas, ferrets are like cats in their play habits in many ways. Most cat toys will do just fine, assuming they met the other criteria, and are easier to find on the whole. Simple things also lead to more fun for your ferret. You may think it has to be something elaborate, but just like babies they’ll prove you wrong by going after something with a certain tone or a certain shine.
Balls, rattles, boxes, and bags all contain hours of potential fun for your ferret. The boxes and bags are less to play with and more to play in, but tons of ferret owners swear by them. Just like cats they love hopping into these, climbing around, etc.
This also means that you may not have to go out for ferret toys at all, you may have some potential ones lying around the house or in storage. So begin your search starting at home and you may be pleasantly surprised.
If that doesn’t work out so well and you prefer your shopping from home, you can begin your search below.
Ferret Home
Is your home and your ferret home going to be the same thing? You should make the choice early. Some people have been known to “ferret proof” a bedroom and call it a day. Most people opt to buy a cage, or a real ferret home.
These tend to be more than just cages, depending on what type you get. They often have multiple levels or compartments in which you can create your ferret’s habitat. This is very important because your ferret needs place to play. They also need for their litter tray to be away from their sleeping area. I’m sure you understand why.
This separation of compartments also allows for some to be lights or darker, warmer or colder to allow your ferret maximum comfort and activity. I’m hardly suggesting you set up heaters and an array of mirrors and doors, but you can have different objects in different places that your ferret can use to meet such needs. The ferret hammock meets a variety of those needs as discussed in another article.
You also want to make sure your ferret home is safe. This criterion is not necessarily met. For example, did you know that wood chips in the cage can hurt a ferret’s feet or cause respiratory problems? The same can be said of wire flooring (for the feet part). An easy way to get around this is to put something over the ferret home’s floor. It doesn’t have to be anything special, just get rid of the grating. The uneven distribution of weight is part of the problem.
This is probably the easiest and simplest way of setting up a welcoming space for your little buddy to stay in if you can pony up the cash. If you can’t, you didn’t plan very far ahead when getting your ferret. These run on average between $50 and $200.
I don’t want to be the wallet-breaking advocate, but don’t completely sacrifice the comfort of your little buddy either. Take some time to look for one that covers the right balance of comfort, safety, and expense. It may take you a little while and you might have to ask a few people, but it can be done.
Amazon is always one of my favorite places to look. If you’re an internet shopping fiend like me, you can check it out below.
Ferret Hammocks
Ferrets are chock full of energy, running around 24/7, right? Well, that’s not actually how it is. If you have a ferret you may have noticed that he or she sleeps… a lot! On average, ferrets will sleep 18-20 hours per day or roughly 3/4ths of their life.
If you were going to spend that much of your life sleeping, wouldn’t you want to have a comfortable bed? I know I would. In fact, as is, many of us toss and turn if our bed is uncomfortable, not feeling refreshed upon waking and low on energy. The same will hold true if your ferret finds his or her sleeping arrangements unpleasant. You have a broad spectrum of choices in bedding for your ferret, but today we’re going to discuss ferret hammocks.
Have you ever noticed that a hammock has roughly the same shape as the body of your ferret? That makes it a rather perfect device for them to curl up in and catch some z’s. The hammock wraps around their body, cutting off most of the light (they are always looking for dark places to sleep), giving the feeling of safety, and still allowing them some cool air. Additionally, it places them in their natural sleeping position. The fleece ferret hammock is most common because of its softness.
They also find ferret hammocks fun to play in, so you should be careful how you hang it up if you’re getting one. If your ferret hammock is too close to the edge of the cage he or she may get hurt swinging in it. Also be sure to conduct proper maintenance on it as they will get dirty or worn out. I’d recommend throwing the hammock in the wash whenever you do your own clothes (about weekly or biweekly hopefully). From time to time also take a look at the material to make sure it isn’t beginning to fray and the seems aren’t separating. If either of these occur, it becomes a hazard to your ferret’s sleep/play.
Ferret hammocks run on average between $5 and $20. You can make your own, if you’re good with that sort of thing, but make sure that two things are satisfied-safety and comfort. If your ferret isn’t sleeping well it may compromise the quality or length of his or her life. Normally you’ll be able to tell just by looking if your ferret is happy with it or not.
Baby Ferrets
Baby ferrets also known as kits are cute, lovable, and tend to get into trouble in a fun sort of way. But are you really ready to care for one? And is a baby ferret right for you even if you did know how to care for it?
The advantages of getting a baby ferret are obvious-it’s cuter, more energetic, and more fun. In short, it’s everything you’d expect of a baby animal. Some people tend to turn a blind eye to the disadvantages because they really had their hearts set on a kit.
Far be it from me to tell you that you can’t have one though, I’m just the information guy that wants to make sure you’re prepared. So let’s get started.
The disadvantages primarily lie in the training. They need to be “nip” trained and litter trained. While frustrating for adults, it may be slightly more dangerous if you have young children in the house. The children won’t know how to handle it, and if you haven’t had your baby ferret descented, you may run into that not-so-sweet fragrance. The same may apply to older ferrets, but they are more used to people and less likely to feel in danger. The children will also break up any training that you’d do otherwise.
If you’ve made your decision, here are some of the things you’ll need to know in your journey with your baby ferret. Six weeks old is the “magical” age where a lot of things happen (or should happen) to your kit. It is the age where they can be weaned, descented, if you are going to (it becomes very painful for them if you try it much later), neutered or spayed, which if very important for ferret health unless you are breeding, and vaccinated.
If you’re getting yours from the store, you need to have a lengthy conversation about your baby ferret’s history. Most will have their distemper shot already, but three are required about three weeks apart from each other, and annually after that. You may also want to discuss what kind of food he or she was getting before you change over.
Next on your list—baby ferrets need toys, period. Not all of them are safe though. You may want to avoid those with small parts or materials that can be chewed up and swallowed as these risk both choking problems and digestive problems. Plastic is often a good choice. You’ll also have better luck fiscally if you choose durable toys.
That’s about it for a highlight of the differences to expect when caring for baby ferrets V.S. caring for adult ferrets. You still have to take care of its home, special food, water, etc, but that’s another article.
